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  Air an latha màireach chaidh sinn seachad air Eileanaibh Mhagdalain, seachd eileanan beaga a tha a’ seasamh ann am Muir Labhrainn, mu choinneamh Rudha Labhrainn (Cape St. Lawrence) an Ceap Breatann. Air Di-haoine thàinig sinn am fagus do Eilean Prionnsa Eideard, no Eilean Phrionnsa Iomhair, ainm a thugadh air bho Phrionnsa Iomhar, Diuc Kent, athair na Ban-righinn oir b’e an t-ainm a thug na Frangaich air, Eilean Eòin no Eilean Iain, air son Eòin Baiste. Chan eil aon de na h-ainmibh freagarrach, agus tha so a’ dearbhadh cho bochd, gann-bhriathrach ’s a tha muinntir an latha ’n diugh air son ainmean àite ann an coimeas ris na seann Ghàidheil, aig an robh ainm fa leth air son gach eilean us loch, us cnoc us abhainn us gleann us monadh, a chitheadh iad. Tha mi creidsinn gu math gun tugadh iad an t-Eilean Fada mar ainm air, oir tha e seachd fichead mìle air fad agus dà fhichead air leud. Sheòl sinn seachad air a’ cheann sear de’n Eilean eadar e fèin agus Ceap Breatann. Cha’n eil an t-ainm so freagarrach air an eilean so, nas mò na ainm an eilein eile. Bheireadh na seann Ghàidheil ainm air mòran na bu fhreagarraiche. Se an t-Eilean Loch Linneach ainm bu fhreagarraiche, oir tha e làn lochan agus linneachan uisge.

  Bha mise ro dheònach a bhi stigh ann an caladh Phictou air oidhche Di-sathurna, a chum gun searmonaichinn anns a’ bhaile air an t-Sàbaid; ach a chionn gun robh a’ ghaoth ’nar n-aghaidh cha b’urrainn duinn am port a dhèanamh a mach na bu luaithe na feasgar na Sàbaide. Uime sin cha deachaidh sinn air tìr gu Diluain. Air an deicheamh là de Mhàigh, chaidh sinn a stigh do phort Phictou agus thilg sinn a mach ar n-acraichean anns a’ chala. Bha sinn naoi làithean deug thar fhichead air a’ chuan, oir dh’fhàg sinn Glascho air an dara latha de April. Fhuair sinn ànradh agus stoirm gu leòr air an turus, ach bha an Tighearna fàbharach, agus thug e sinn gu tèarainte do’n chala bu mhiannach leinn.

  Uime sin lìonadh ar cridhe le subhachas, a chionn gun do theasairg e sinn às gach cunnart.

  (25 December 1869 and 15 January 1870)

  Travels in Nova Scotia,

  Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton 1846-1847

  As soon as I came ashore in Pictou I visited the house of Donald Ferguson, one of the church elders, for I had a letter for him from a minister in Scotland. He directed me to a boarding house where I could stay. On Wednesday May 13th I went about eight miles into the country and there I met Mr. Stewart, minister of New Glasgow, and Mr. Sutherland and Mr. Campbell, two of my companions at the College or University of Edinburgh, who were now ministers of the gospel in Nova Scotia’s presbytery of Pictou. I greatly rejoiced when they met me, and they were very glad to see me in good health.

  I was in the town of Pictou on the Sabbath, and the sentiments that arose in my mind when I heard the sound of the Gaelic Psalms being sung in a strange land were profound. I remembered the days gone by when I used to listen to the melodies of the Psalms in my native land. I thought I was at home in the Highlands, and I could hardly believe that I was now two thousand miles from the land where I was brought up. My mind was filled with melancholy and sad thoughts that overwhelmed me with emotion. However, I remembered that I was under the eye of the omnipresent Supreme Being here as I was in Scotland, and I saw the eternal majesty of the Almighty who is present in every part of the universe that He created.

  I stayed in the district of Pictou until the last month of summer and on Monday the 6th day of that month I joined Mr. Murdoch Stewart and Mr. Wilson, two ministers from Cape Breton who were going to Halifax to the Synod that was to meet on Wednesday. The ministers from Pictou were also with us and we reached Halifax on Tuesday evening. The Synod met the following day, and there I met Mr. MacTavish who had just returned from Canada, a meeting that gave me great pleasure, for we had known each other in Scotland. I returned to Pictou on Saturday. Mr. MacTavish arrived the following week and he and I went across to find out how the Gaels were getting on in Prince Edward Island. We stayed for about fourteen days in different parts of the island, preaching in each place. On the Sunday Mr. MacTavish preached in Charlottetown, the island’s capital, and on Monday the twentieth day of the month he and I went our separate ways until we met again in New London on Thursday.

  After that we returned to Charlottetown. Mr. MacTavish stayed there to preach on the Sunday, but I continued on to Brown’s Creek, where there were many Gaels who had come from Skye, Mull and Colonsay. On Tuesday Mr. MacTavish came to Brown’s Creek, preached there, and baptized more than twenty children at the same time. There were between eight and nine hundred people present that day and they were thrilled to hear the gospel in their own language, for they had been without a service for a long time. Indeed, throughout the whole island they were very happy that we had come to preach to them. They earnestly pleaded with us to stay with them for some time, but it was not possible for us to stay because Mr. MacTavish was going to sail from Halifax to Britain by steamboat on Tuesday the 4th day of August. For that reason we bade farewell to the Gaels of Prince Edward Island and sailed to the town of Pictou. Mr. MacTavish left Pictou for Halifax where he boarded a ship bound for Britain, leaving me homesick in a strange land.

  At the beginning of September I returned to Prince Edward Island along with Mr. Stewart and Mr. Sutherland. We left on Tuesday the first day of the month and went ashore that night on the Little Sands opposite Pictou. The following day, after church services, we continued on our journey around the east side of the island until we reached Brown’s Creek. Mr. Stewart and I proceeded onward to Charlottetown, but Mr. Sutherland stayed on at Brown’s Creek to preach there on Sunday. Mr. Stewart preached in the city and I went about fourteen miles further to Strathalbyn where there was a Highland congregation of immigrants from the Isle of Skye. At the beginning of the week Mr. Stewart and Mr. Sutherland continued their journey and we met in New London. From there we returned to Strathalbyn where we served the Sacrament of the Lord’s Supper on the Sabbath, when about two thousand people assembled. They were despondent when we left, because they were like a flock without a shepherd. We parted with them in sorrow since we could not fill their void and we returned home to Pictou.

  On the 19th day of September I went down to Barney’s River, to be there on the Sabbath. I stayed with the people for the whole week, and on the following Sunday the Sacrament of the Lord’s Supper took place there. Mr. Stewart and Mr. Campbell were with me at the service. We returned to Pictou on Monday, and next Sunday, the 4th day of October, the Sacrament was served at Matheson Mountain, eight miles from Pictou, where about three thousand people gathered. On the second Sunday of the month, October 11, I was preaching on the Blue Mountain. It was my first time there, and we held a prayer meeting on the Monday. I was very well pleased with this congregation. I did not meet many congregations in the woodlands that were as aware of their role as they were. They and the people of Barney’s River asked me to remain with them as their pastor, but I did not wish to stay permanently at that time.

  Since Mr. Stewart had gone to Scotland I stayed in his place for the winter and at the end of the season I went over to Lochaber to see Mr. Campbell. From there I returned to Barney’s River, where I was on the 7th day of February, and then I went back to New Glasgow where I met my friend Mr. Alasdair MacIntyre from Sunart, a minister who had been sent to serve in Prince Edward Island that winter. I rejoiced when I saw him. We travelled together preaching in different places until I moved on to Cape Breton.

  On Friday 12th March (1847) I left Antigonish and reached the Canso Strait about nightfall. I went over to the Island (Cape Breton) on the ice, for the channel was closed with the ice that was drifting throughout the ocean at this time. I stayed here until the Sabbath was over and on Monday 15th March I travelled about twenty miles to the Black River. On Tuesday I preached at the Black River Church from Verses 1-4 of Chapter 15 of the Gospel according to John. Mr. Stewart, the minister, was not at home since he was in Scotland at this time.

  I left Black River on Wednesday and travelled on the ice for about fifteen miles on the lake that is
called the Bras d’Or. It was frozen at the time from end to end and it was approximately sixty miles long and twenty-five miles wide. I reached Malagawatch that day and on the following day I preached in the Church. Although the day was bitterly cold, with the wind blowing from the northwest, half of the windows broken, and not a spark of fire in the building, the people endured the cold and listened patiently until the end. After that I went to a place called Little Narrows and preached at Patrick Channel Church on Friday. On Saturday I continued on to Whycocamagh in order to be there on Sunday.

  On March 21st I preached in a church at a place called the Indian Village to a large crowd of people who had gathered from all of the communities around. They listened to the word with rapt attention and sat quietly until the service was over. They had a yearning to hear the gospel at that time and the power of godliness could be seen among them. It is evident that the gospel was preached here in times gone by and that people had noticed its power of revitalization in time of need. The toil and labour of love of Mr. Peter MacLean had been greatly blessed for the people. To this day the icons of grace that he established can be seen in every corner of the land. The footprints of the Heavenly Messenger can be seen among the woods and rocks and throughout the groves and glens of Whycocomagh. “So beautiful are the feet of those who preach the gospel of peace.”

  Whycocomagh is truly a lovely and precious spot like an oasis in the desert. The natural appearance of the place is appealing and wild; but there is a much better aspect to it. The Spirit of the Lord has been working among the people and has changed the old complexion of the place from being an arid and barren wilderness to being a productive and fertile pastureland. At that time Whycocomagh and the places around it were abandoned like sheep without a shepherd. When I was with them the people were eagerly waiting for Mr. Peter MacLean, something which gave great joy to those who had heard him preaching. I was sad leaving these people. I did not wish to leave them. It was with difficulty that I pulled myself away from them, for I was happy while I was with them. But since I had decided to go to Upper Canada, I had to leave.

  On Monday, the 22nd day of the month, I left Whycocomagh and made my way to River Denys where I spent two nights with Mr. Donald Cameron, a Lochaber man whose family came from Clunes on the side of Loch Lochy. He and his family showed me unstinting hospitality in keeping with the traditional generosity of the old Gaels. On Wednesday I left Donald Cameron’s house and journeyed on until I reached the Strait of Canso on Friday evening. Here I met Mr. Alasdair MacIntyre, my preacher friend and colleague, who was on his way to Whycocomagh. He kept going and I went across the strait on a boat and returned to Pictou where I made preparations to go to Canada.

  (25 Dùbhlachd 1869 agus 15 Faoilleach 1870)

  Tursan Air Feadh Nuadh-Albainn, Eilean Prionnsa Eideard Agus Eilean Cheap Breatainn 1846-1847

  Cho luath ’s a thàinig mi air tìr aig Pictou thadhail mi aig tigh Dhòmhnaill MhicFhearghais, aon de sheanairibh na h-eaglaise, oir bha litir agam d’a ionnsaidh o mhinisteir ann an Albainn. Sheòl esan mi gu tigh-chairtealan far an gabhainn còmhnaidh. Air Diciadain an 13mh là de Mhàigh, chaidh mi mach do’n dùthaich mu ochd mile agus thachair mi an sin air Mr. Stiùbhart, minister Ghlascho Nomha, agus Mr. Sutharlan agus Mr. Caimbeul, dithis de na companaich a bh’ agam ann an Colaisde no Oilthigh Dhùn-Eidinn, a bha nise ’nam ministeiribh an t-soisgeil ann a Nuadh Albainn, ann an clèir Phictou. Rinn mi gàirdeachas mòr nuair a choinnich iad mi, agus bha iadsan ro shubhach nuair a chunnaic iad mise slàn fallain.

  Bha mi ann am baile Phictou air an t-Sàbaid, agus b’ iongantach na faireachdainnean a dhùisg ann am inntinn nuair a chuala mi fuaim nan Salm Gàidhealach ’gan seinn air tùs ann an tìr aineoil. Chuimhnich mi air na làithibh a chaidh seachad nuair a b’àbhaist domh a bhith ag èisteachd ri fonn nan Salm ann an tìr mo dhùthchais. Tharr leam gun robh mi aig an tigh ’sa Ghàidhealtachd, agus ’s gann a chreidinn gun robh mi nise dà mhìle de mhìltibh air astar o’n tìr anns an deachaidh m’ àrach. Lìonadh m’ inntinn le smuaintibh tiamhaidh, muladach, agus thàinig reachd ’nam chliabh. Ach chuimhnich mi gun robh mi fo shùil an Tì Uile-làthairich an so an aon nì us an Albainn, agus chunnaic mi Mòrachd neo-chriochnach an Uile-chumhachdaich a tha làthair anns gach ionad de ’n Chruitheachd a dhealbh e.

  Dh’fhuirich mi ann an dùthaich Phictou gus an d’thàinig mìos mu dheireadh an t-samhraidh agus air Diluain an 6mh là de’n mhìos chaidh mi maille ri Mr. Murchadh Stiùbhart agus Mr. Wilson, dithis mhinisteirean à Ceap Breatainn a bha dol gu Halifax a chum an t-Seanaidh a choinnich air Diciadain. Bha ministeirean Phictou maille ruinn mar an ceudna agus ràinig sinn Halifax air feasgar Dimàirt. Air an latha màireach choinnich an Seanadh, agus an sin thachair orm Mr. MacThàmhais an dèidh dha pilltinn o Chanada, nì a chuir aoibhneas mòr orm, oir bha sinn eòlach air a chèile ann an Albainn. Phìll mise gu Pictou air Disathairne agus thàinig Mr. MacThàmhais air adhart an ath sheachdain agus chaidh e fèin ’s mise thairis a dh’fhiosrachadh cor nan Gàidheal ann an Eilean Prionns’ Eideard. Dh’fhuirich sinn mu thimcheall ceithir latha deug air feadh an Eilein, a’ searmonachadh anns gach àite. Air an t-Sàbaid shearmonaich Mr. MacThàmhais ann am baile Charlotte, ceann-bhaile an Eilein, agus air Diluain, an 20mh là de’n mhìos, chaidh e fèin ’s mise mach air dà rathad eadar-dhealaichte gus an do choinnich sinn aig Nuadh Lunnainn Diardaoin.

  An dèidh sin phìll sinn air ar n-ais gu baile Charlotte. Dh’fhan Mr. MacThàmhais gu searmonachadh anns a’ bhaile air an t-Sàbaid, ach chaidh mise air m’ adhart gu Geodha a’ Bhrùnaich, far an robh mòran Ghàidheal a thàinig às an Eilean Sgitheanach, à Muile agus à Colosaidh. Air Dimàirt thàinig Mr. Mac Thàmhais air adhart gu Geodha Bhrùnaich, shearmonaich e an sin, agus bhaist e còrr ’us fichead leanabh aig an aon àm. Bha eadar ochd ’us naoi ceud sluaigh cruinn an là sin, agus rinn iad gàirdeachas ro mhòr nuair a chuala iad an soisgeul ’nan cànain fèin, oir bha iad iomadh latha gun searmoin, seadh air fad an Eilein bha iad ro aoibhneach a chionn gun deachaidh sinn g’ am fiosrachadh. Ghuidh iad oirnn gu dùrachdach fantainn beagan ùine maille riutha, ach cha robh e comasach dhuinn fantainn, do bhrìgh gun robh Mr. Mac Thàmhais a’ dol a sheòladh à Halifax do Bhreatainn air an Stoth-Bhàta (Steam-boat) air Dimàirt an 4mh là de August. Air an adhbhar sin ghabh sinn ar cead do na Gàidheil ann an Eilean Prionns’ Eideard agus sheòl sinn gu baile Phictou. Dh’fhalbh Mr. MacThàmhais à Pictou gu Halifax às an do ghabh e long do Bhreatainn agus dh’fhàg e mise cianail às a dhèidh ann an tìr aineoil.

  Mu thoiseach mìos September chaidh mi air m’ ais a rìs gu Eilean Prionns’ Eideard maille ri Mr. Stiùbhart agus Mr. Sutharlan. Dh’fhalbh sinn air Dimàirt a’ cheud là dhe’n mhìos, agus chaidh sinn air tìr an oidhche sin aig na Tràghannan beaga mu choinneamh Phictou. Air an là màireach, an dèidh searmoin, chùm sinn romhainn air ar turas timcheall ceann sear an Eilein gus an d’ ràinig sinn Geodha Bhrùnaich. Chaidh Mr. Stiùbhart agus mise air ar n-adhart gu baile Charlotte, ach dh’fhuirich Mr. Sutharlan aig Geodha Bhrùnaich gu searmonachadh an sin air an t-Sàbaid. Shearmonaich Mr. Stiùbhart anns a’ bhaile mhòr, agus chaidh mise mach mu cheithir mile deug gu Srath nan Albannach far an robh coithional Gàidhealach de mhuinntir an Eilein Sgiathanaich. Mu thoiseach na seachdain thàinig Mr. Stiùbhart agus Mr. Sutharlan air an adhart, agus choinnich sinn a chèile aig Nuadh Lunnainn. Phìll sinn air ar n-ais o sin gu Srath nan Albannach far an do fhritheil sinn Sàcramaid Suipear an Tighearna air an t-Sàbaid, nuair a chruinnich mu dhà mhìle sluaigh. Bha iad brònach nuair a dh’fhàg sinn oir bha iad mar chaoraich gun bhuachaille. Dhealaich sinn riutha le cianalas a chionn nach b’ urrainn sinn an uireasbhaidh a leasachadh agus phìll sinn dhachaidh gu Pictou.

  Air an 19mh là de September chaidh mi sìos gu Abhainn Bhàrnaidh gu bhi an sin air Shàbaid. Dh’fhan mi maille ris an t-sluagh fad na seachdain, agus air an ath Shàbaid bha Sàcramaid Suipear an Tighearna air a frithealadh an sin, agus bha Mr. Stiùbhart ’s Mr. Caimbeul maille rium aig an t-seirbhi
s. Phìll sinn gu Pictou air Diluain, agus air an t-Sàbaid an dèidh sin, an 4mh là de October, bha Sàcramaid na Suipearach air a frithealadh air Beinn nam Mathanach ochd mile o Phictou far an do chruinnich mu thrì mile sluaigh. Air an dara Sàbaid de mìos October, an 11mh là, bha mi air a’ Bheinn Ghuirm a’ searmonachadh, a’ cheud uair a bha mi riamh ann, agus chùm sinn coinneamh ùrnaigh air Diluain. Thaitinn an sluagh so rium gu h-anabarrach maith. Cha do thachair mi ri mòran de choithionalaibh feadh nan coilltean aig an robh uibhir de thuigse mu thimcheall an dleasdanais. Thug iad fèin agus muinntir Abhainn Bhàrnaidh gairm dhomh gu fantainn aca mar aodhaire, ach cha b’àill leam fuireach aig an àm sin.

  Do bhrìgh gun deachaidh Mr. Stiùbhart do Albainn dh’fhuirich mi na àite air a’ gheamhradh agus mu dheireadh a’ gheamhraidh chaidh mi nunn do Lochabar a dh’fhaicinn Mhr. Caimbeul. Phìll mi à sin gu Abhainn Bhàrnaidh far an robh mi air an 7mh là dhe Februaraidh agus thàinig mi a rìs air ais gu Glascho far an do thachair mi air mo charaid Mr. Alasdair Mac an t-Saoir o Shuaineart, ministear a chuireadh a mach air son Eilean Prionns’ Eideard air a’ gheamhradh so. Rinn mi gàirdeachas nuair a chunnaic mi e. Shiubhail sinn cuideachd air feadh na dùthcha a’ searmonachadh gus an deachaidh mi air m’ adhart gu Ceap Breatainn.

  Air Dihaoine, an 12mh de ’n Mhàrt (1847), dh’fhàg mi Antigonish agus ràinig mi Caolas Chanso mu bheul an anmoich. Chaidh mi nunn air an deigh gu ruig an t-Eilean (Ceap Breatainn), oir bha an caolas air a dhùnadh suas leis an deigh a bha snàmh air feadh a’ chuain aig an àm so. Dh’fhuirich mi aig an àite so gus an deachaidh an t-Sàbaid seachad, agus air Diluain, an 15mh là de’n mhìos, dh’fhalbh mi nunn gu ruig an Abhainn Dubh mu thimcheall fichead mile air astar. Shearmonaich mi ann an Eaglais na h-Aibhne Duibhe air Dimàirt o’n xv. Caib. 1-4 de Shoisgeul Eòin. Cha robh Mr. Stiùbhart, am ministear, aig an taigh oir bha e ann an Albainn aig an àm so.